Thursday comments roundup!

OK, well, in one minute it will be Friday, but I’m going to be optimistic and title the post before midnight.

First, a tiny rant: We need to buy a second crate now that Ginny is back. She’s the size of a swizzle stick, but I still want to get an Intermediate crate (Vari-Kennel 300) because then I can switch the dogs around if I need to. Intermediates are also a little more practical as working surfaces–with a blanket over the crate they’re impromptu drink carts, changing areas, grooming tables, you name it.  We were running late tonight and couldn’t get to our normal pet supply place, so I ran into PetCo.

Do you know how much they wanted? ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTEEN DOLLARS. This is a SIXTY-DOLLAR crate, peoples! Seventy if you absolutely must, but not a penny more. They are charging almost 100% over the RETAIL price! Insane. Moral: Do not go to PetCo for anything that is available elsewhere, because it will be substantially cheaper almost anywhere else. My personal recommendations are JBPet, PetEdge, Dog.com, and any pet discounter. Just as long as they don’t sell puppies and/or kittens.

A major rave: The spring puppies are starting to come! It’s SO exciting to see the big bellies become beautiful litters and then grow up. And since Bronte’s is the beautifullest and, wow, the biggest, I can hardly breathe with the anticipation. Whee!

OK, on to comments.

A whole raft of them from Micaela:

I thought of another question for you: now that you don’t have the yard playspace for the dogs to run around in, and your living quarters are smaller, I imagine you have to make more of an effort to keep them from getting bored. Do you?

Oh, goodness, yes. This is made even harder by the fact that these are two dogs that do not easily play with each other. Ginny never plays with anybody she can’t be sure she’s in charge of. Clue invites her to play a hundred times a day, but Ginny usually glares at her and flounces off.

Just over the last couple of days we’ve seen them play twice, both for only a minute or two until Ginny realizes what she’s doing. I have real hope that this will continue and their ability to have fun together will grow, but I really have no idea.

Right now we’re focusing on TV for dogs–in other words, digging and chewing. Lots of toys, lots of games of throw and catch, lots and lots of edible chewies. Beds and blankets that encourage digging are also a hit. We’re RIGHT on the edge of letting Clue run again, and at that point every fair day we’ll be taking journeys with the two of them, but for now we’re letting the “TV” do a lot of babysitting.

Also, any tips for dealing with separation anxiety? Our dog’s much-improved, which I’m sure has to do with her confidence & sense of trust in her humans being restored –we’re sure someone hurt her before she got to the rescue group we adopted her from. But she’s still got separation issues, for example she howls piteously if my husband goes outside to wash the car even when the rest of us are home with her. I’m *very* happy tho that she’s not on any of the anti-anxiety meds that other Blueticks get put on. I don’t want my dog on Prozac! Would appreciate any input you may have to offer.

You know how there are breeds of sheep that “flock” and breeds that don’t? Some breeds enjoy company but when stressed it’s every ewe for herself. Other breeds respond to stress by looking for a sister on each side and then pressing close.

If an analogous statement could be made about dogs, hounds are definitely a “flocking” breed. It is all very natural; every breed with a function and a job has had certain wolf instincts magnified. In the same way that herding breeds have the “bring the prey to the pack” instinct or terriers have the “respond quickly to prey” instinct magnified, hounds have the “hunt in a pack over long distances and despite great hardship” instinct magnified. They have their social skills and social needs VERY emphasized, because they were designed to live and work without conflict in large and disorganized groups.

So while a herding dog will natter and complain if a family member leaves the room because they want everybody in the little boxes the dog put them in, a hound genuinely feels bereft, even endangered.

This isn’t necessarily any sign of abuse or even neglect–it’s the reaction of a dog who needs lots and lots of social contact to feel normal.

Perhaps the ideal “cure” for this is a pack–is there a good dog daycare in your area that takes big dogs and has a VERY large safe fenced area? I personally don’t recommend (at least for big dogs) the one-room indoor care–you want something where she can trail and run and get the feedback from other dogs that she needs.

I think I’d also work on meeting her need to hunt, trail, and track. These dogs need to go very long distances in a basically straight line; they are incredibly attuned to the migration/trail. If you can work her up to biking for five or six miles (you bike, she’s on a Springer beside you), rollerblade, skijoring or skatejoring, etc., she will be so tired and happy that her need for constant social input will be substantially blunted.

We’ve been feeding our Bluetick Coonhound the basic Canidae (it’s easy to find at our local feed stores which is a minor miracle given where we live), and supplementing whenever we can with fresh pork chops, beef cuts, ham or pork shoulder bones… it depends on what the family’s eating, we’re not shopping fresh just for her yet. One thing she’s made very clear is that she will not eat uncooked poultry, so I wind up partially roasting any chicken or turkey I’m going to feed her, which makes me nervous about some of the bones not being safe, etc. Another thing that’s driving me crazy is that she seems to be having the dry skin issues that we’re all struggling with because we live in the SW desert… I’ve thought about adding some olive or flaxseed oil to her kibble, but I’d like to read more on the subject. Like, does she need more FAT in her diet, or does she just need more MOISTURE in her food?

I am a great fan of table scraps, so you’ll get no flak from me on that front. The only thing I’d encourage you to do is to try to separate the raw and the kibble as much as possible. Instead of feeding a kibble meal with a couple of pieces of raw on top, store the raw in the fridge for a couple of days until you have enough for a full day, then feed her an entire day (which can mean one meal–she doesn’t need to be fed twice) and don’t feed her kibble that day.

I think it’s very common for them to be confused by raw chicken. I’ve had several like that. I think that searing the piece of meat in some hot butter and garlic is safer than baking it, because you’re just cooking the skin and the top couple of millimeters of muscle instead of cooking the bone. As she gets more used to it (especially if she can’t just go to the food bowl and eat kibble instead) you can sear less and less until she’s taking the raw piece from your hand.

Moisture in food is the same as just drinking water, so as long as she’s a good drinker she’ll be fine on that front. I think she probably does need more oil in her diet, and you can also give her hot oil baths (I used to do it all the time for the Danes).

When I supplement with oil, I make up a gross mixture of a poud of Mirra-Coat (a horse fatty acid and biotin supplement), a big jar of peanut butter, 16 oz salmon oil, about a pound of ground flax, a jar of coconut oil, a ton of olive oil, some honey, and a pound of Nature’s Logic supplement. Adjust as necessary to get it to the texture of a stiff cookie dough. Make it into teaspoon-size balls and keep it in the fridge. If you feed one or two a day you’ll notice a huge difference within a week or two. They get super shiny right along the spine and then it spreads down the sides. I’ve even had them get a little greasy along the backbone, but that’s fine with me because I’m bathing so often and after the bath the hair is SO healthy.

Would it be possible for you to address these questions in a post sometime soon? I asked on a local parenting forum if anyone raw-feeds their dogs and quite a few people replied that they’d tried and their dogs hadn’t liked it. I wonder if they just tried the wrong things, or if food pickyness is as common with dogs as it is with children…

I always take any statements about raw with a certain amount of suspicion. It’s not that I don’t believe people, just that (unfortunately) so many people do it totally wrong and then say that it failed or the dog didn’t thrive or whatever. Feeding raw correctly is not difficult, but it’s not just “feeding raw.” If they’re starting wrong, feeding the wrong things, preparing their dogs wrong, or won’t tolerate the normal transition symptoms (like loose stool), they’ll often say that the diet was at fault.

I’ve started or switched to raw probably 40-50 dogs now, with the puppies I’ve raised and the rescues and the visitors (every dog with me longer than 24 hours gets switched to raw), and I’ve had plenty of them initially refuse it or not know what to do. I’ve never had one that I’d consider a real failure. It sometimes takes a few weeks of standing on my head for the dog, but pretty soon they’re jumping in the air to catch chicken backs just like everybody else.

From Tammy (hi!):

Okay… Loki’s 27 lbs, intact. How much of Orijen do you think I should be feeding a day? He’s fairly active… and what puppy food would you suggest for our new baby Bella?

I’d start with 3/4 cup a day and be prepared to cut back or increase. I am in the habit of running my hands over every dog in the house every day, and I’ll often adjust food amounts daily. Somebody will get a tiny bit more, somebody else has to fast. You can put weight on the typical dog VERY quickly, but it’s a lot harder to take it off. So too little is better than too much, at least initially.

Since Bella is going to be over 20 lb as an adult, I wouldn’t feed her puppy food at all. I would only use a puppy formula for breeds that are prone to hypoglycemia. Anybody else is actually better off with an adult food to make sure they’re growing very slowly. Don’t use a lamb and rice or no-allergy or a reduced-fat formula; you want chicken or beef/other red meat.

In adult conventional kibbles, I like (maybe “tolerate” is a better word) Solid Gold (Wolf King or MMillennia), Canidae, the Natural Balance normal/adult food, Castor and Pollux (the Cesar Millan food is a repackaged version of C&P’s adult food, so that’s good too), Innova (I never had success with this in the Danes because it was much too rich for them, but plenty of people LOVE it).

I’d also encourage you to look at the “foolproof” raw diets for a puppy, if you don’t want to plunge into actual raw feeding. Wendy Volhard’s NDF 2 formula and Sojos Grain-Free are dry vegetable mixes (and Volhard’s has some grains) that you soak and combine with raw meat.

From B:

I followed you here from a galaxy far away…:P I have a motive in hanging around learning from you–looking fwd (in a couple of years) to being the best (pet) dog owner I can– first need to figure out what breed is best for my family and then where to get said dog from…I have two Qs for you at the moment, do you have a how to select a breed thing written up around here somewhere? I thought I saw one from you a while back but can’t turn it up now…Hmm…The other Q is what blogs/essp forums you know of about breeds types, ethical breeding, dog bahviour, general living with dog type stuff that you would recommend as being fairly or totally on the mark. Any help would be appreciated, I am trying to do this right but I admit I am a bit lost at it…Thank you in advance…

Is that… the EVIL galaxy? I still read over there, because it’s like watching a car wreck, but I am so glad to not be part of the crazy anymore.

YES, I do have a breed selection article. It’s long, so you need to download it in .doc form. It used to be on my website (which, yes, I know, is out of date, but all the website files are on burnt computers and I can’t face the task of re-creating them right now). It got left behind when I changed the website around, so this is a good reminder to get it updated and back to the land of the living. I’ll let you know when I’ve got it uploaded–should be in the next few days.

I honestly don’t know of good general dog forums. If any reader here does, please post one. Unfortunately, what generally happens to those forums is the same newbie questions get asked over and over again and so the more experienced posters leave. The only ones left are the ones who can stand the same sob story a hundred times, which is to their credit, but they get REALLY jaundiced about everything. If you come there and say “I have a Peke-a-Poo puppy who has diarrhea and…” they’ll immediately jump all over you for buying a mixed-breed dog (or buying a poorly bred purebred, or whatever) and you’ll be unlikely to get your question answered. It’s absolutely true that you SHOULD NOT have bought that dog, but if it’s got diarrhea you might like knowing how to solve that.

I’ve always found the single-breed listservs or yahoo groups to be the best source for information about that particular breed. Look for the list that has several hundred or a thousand members and you’ve probably found the primary one. My only caution is that you need to SHUT UP AND READ, including ALL of the archives, for at least a month before you ask any questions. Most of the time you’ll realize that yours was answered ten times in the last year. If you wait until you don’t look quite so green and new, you’ll be able to have a much nicer time in the conversation.


From Bonnie: What do you think of Victoria Stilwell’s It’s Me Or The Dog?

Well. That IS a question. Let me begin by saying that I am not 100% in love with any of the television trainers–I think Cesar is a freaking genius but I think he doesn’t realize how poorly most people are implementing what he does so well. His methods require exactly what he has–years of experience in watching dogs, body language, energy, communication, and pack behavior. He responds to the dog’s own language and signals much more than he responds to behavior. I think even he doesn’t realize exactly what he’s doing. If you are a typical dog owner with 99% of what the dog is doing a complete mystery to you, you can misapply his techniques and really hurt your dog.

Victoria does better at communicating techniques that are broader, shallower, more foolproof. Unfortunately, she often SUCKS at body language and she puts dogs into situations that are genuinely dangerous and then pez-dispenses cookies to distract them; the owners perceive this as success but the dog has not changed one bit. I once watched an episode where she had two dogs who were determined to kill each other in a room together, and was rewarding them “so they would associate the presence of the other dog with a reward.” I started screeching at the TV when I could clearly see that the dogs greatly and steadily desired the death of each other, and were quite cheerful about that (there is, as Terhune said, a gay cavalier inside each dog who fights), and from their point of view were getting cookies shoved down their throats in glorious recognition of their hatred. They were staring at each other with tails stiff and eyes fixed, eating cookies as fast as they could.

She is also SO COMPLETELY TOTALLY WRONG about prong collars and choke collars. Head halters are MUCH more likely to cause serious damage than the prong (which is actually the safest collar for the average owner to use) and head halters and ez-pull harnesses and so on don’t train. They just make certain movements physically impossible. The dog doesn’t say “Oh, my owner is telling me not to do that, and therefore I will not do it.” The dog instead is physically impeded. Saying those tools train is like saying that a wall trains dogs not to run away. As soon as the tool–as soon as the wall–is gone, the behavior is exactly the same. You can choose to use those tools, just like you choose to use a wall, but they should be a very temporary stop-gap with the goal of using real training signals as soon as possible.

I also think that neither of them does a good job of verbally describing exactly why they are doing what they’re doing, with fearful dogs in particular. Cesar does talk about stopping dogs from moving forward (decreasing drive) but doesn’t articulate exactly why his methods are working on fearful dogs. I know the shows are edited, so maybe they’re talking with the owners at length, but there’s a lot of “Do this” and very little “Do this because it works this way and has this result.” I think that many (most?) dog owners punish fear. I know I did. I knew you were supposed to stop the dog from, for example, growling, but I didn’t know how to distinguish the growl that means “please don’t; I’m afraid,” from the one that says “don’t, or I’ll have to punish you.” I didn’t know that you have to begin your shaping of the eventual result LONG before it gets to the point of the growl; by the time the growl comes you’ve already failed to a certain extent. If you watch Cesar, he never, ever uses an aversive or a correction on a fearful dog, but I’ve never heard him say “Never correct a fearful dog” in so many words. I think he should be saying it EVERY TIME.

If you want my advice on training, I’d say put away all the actual training books for a few months. Read Rugaas and Aloff’s books on body language and read everything you can get on dog behavior and pack techniques. Dunbar, Donaldson, Pryor are great at teaching about motivation. But if you only read them you will (I am convinced) only get part of the story. You should also read the Monks of New Skete and all the classic ones from trainers long since gone to their reward. Read Bones Would Rain From the Sky. Read Katz. Read books on border collies (not because you’d be teaching herding, but because the best herding training is all about shaping natural and joyful behaviors), and I would very highly recommend reading several books on Schutzhund. Even if you own a beagle or a maltese. Schutzhund researchers understand drive, and how handlers increase, decrease, mishandle, and screw up drive better than anyone else.

You need to read everyone because nobody has the whole story. The pure researchers who focus solely on motivation miss the boat because they are so careful to never attribute any behavior to anything but the self-interest of the animal. For a bonded dog-human pair, that’s like analyzing a marriage and ignoring anything that isn’t the result of self-interest. Dogs DO love, and they DO feel jealousy, and they DO object to inequity, and so on. The behaviorists who determine that no aversive signals can ever be given forget that dogs themselves communicate in aversives. The behaviorists who object to food rewards forget that candy tastes good, and so does liver. And if you want candy you do stuff, and dogs do the same thing.

If you read EVERYBODY, and watch your dog(s) for a long time, you’ll start to build an idea of what’s true. Then you’re ready to go back to actual trainers and throw out what you know is false and keep what you know is true. But above all else, the DOG MUST TEACH YOU. If you are doing anything without the dog “agreeing” with you–if the dog is showing confusion, anger, fear, anxiety, etc.–I don’t care how gold-certified the technique you’re using is; stop it. That’s why I think you must start with the body language books (and videos/dvds if you can get them); you have to know what your dog is communicating before you can continue with the training.

And (last one for tonight), from Pai:

A question though — when you said ‘close physical contact does not equal love’ I wonder about my dog, a Chinese Crested, who as a breed are called ‘velcro dogs’ because they always want to be near their owners or in physical contact with them. Is that then, not affection? Does that just mean the breed is actually just naturally very ‘possessive’?

I think many breeds feel this way. Sometimes it’s possession, sometimes it really is love. Depends on the dog. The huge difference between this and the “training” episode I told about is that the dog is choosing to be close to the owner. There’s no compulsion involved.

Humans are EXTREMELY high-touch, all the time. If you have an intimate and loving relationship with someone, touch and invasion of space are perceived to be a constant positive. Think about all the movie scenes where the hero or the heroine gather the other person close, despite the other person initially fighting. The eventual surrender to the embrace is a sign of acceptance of that person’s love; it’s a signal of emotional wellness and the success of the relationship.

That’s what the trainer in the episode I told you about was trying to push on a dog, with the added “value” that the dog would have to submit to the contact and therefore become a “better” dog.

But that’s not the way a dog thinks or wants or desires; forced contact is the way dogs punish each other and threaten each other. So this puppy perceived himself as being horribly threatened and repeatedly punished, and he was not allowed to apologize by getting away from the punisher.

A dog climbing in your lap or draping himself over your shoulder is very different–that’s contact that the dog chooses and enjoys.

Advertisements

10 thoughts on “Thursday comments roundup!

  1. Hi!!!! THANK YOU so much for the advice. I had cut him down to just under a cup but I think I’ll drop it even more. And I’m wondering if Innova might be too right for a collie tummy too… I’ll look into the other ones that you suggested.
    Oh and here is a pic of our new baby 😉 She’s the blue merle babe. http://www3.telus.net/Cherfire/puppies.htm on her breeders website. All of the pups are spoken for and have been since before birth.

  2. Can I ask a behaviour question for next week’s roundup? Actually, maybe I’ll ask two.

    1) Our GSD Jaida is the middle dog (2.5yrs old, spayed). The others are 10ish months (bostonX, not spayed) and 6ish yrs (terrier/husky/collieishX, spayed). She is an uber-submissive dog. The behaviour I’m wondering about is a way she interacts with the oldest, who is uber-dominant. To my untrained eyes, it seems unsolicited most of the time. Example: Jaida’s lying on the carpet. Gracie, the elder, come over and sniffs Jaida, who promptly offers access with a lifted leg. Jaidas ears flatten and her head bows and she looks up at Gracie with the whites of her eyes showing. I’m reading this as all defferential “you’re the boss, I’m no threat” stuff. Then Jaida reaches down with her muzzle and places it near Gracie’s muzzle, which I understand to be a puppy-ish gesture. Gracie finishes her sniff and starts to walk away, but Jaida follows, all the while trying to stick her muzzle in Gracie’s face. Jaida is wagging her tail quite exuberantly and by now her body is about 3 inches off the floor, she’s practically crawling around after Gracie, who seems completely unimpressed and continuously changes direction and moves her head away from Jaida’s. This all seems like a seriously unnecessary and exaggerated display of submission, and I find it strange that Jaida follows Gracie around to perform it. This happens probably on a daily basis, several times a day. Can you shed some light here?

    2) The older dog had horrible manners with other dogs when we first got her (1 year old rescue completely retarded in dog speak and no socialization whatsoever). Combine that with a gottacontroltheworldohsodominant mentality and we ended up with dog fights. We’ve worked hard with her and we’re at the point now where we have two other dogs in the house and we can reliably take her on leashed walks when other dogs are around. Our issue is with loose dogs in our neighbourhood…we’re in the country, most people don’t tie their farm dogs, and, unlike our own pack, those dogs don’t stay on their own property and wander over to ours. If Gracie spots one, she’s flying across the property after them. Before we started working with her, she would chace until she caught and grabbed the other dog. Now we can call her off the chase and she’ll come back home reliably. I guess I’m wondering if she’s still showing lack of manners here. Should she be expected to approach the strange dog more slowly with greeting behaviours or is this kind of thing to be expected? Not sure how much of a “real” offense the mere presence of another dog actually is.

  3. A decent dog forum is Chazhound.com (lots of show folks, lots of experienced behavior folks, lots of sports people. Downsides- kind of cliqueish, a LOT of off-topic, wandering threads, and sometimes people who are old timers get away with stuff they oughtn’t.)

    (I sort of hesitate to post that link, but I posted your blog on the Pit Of Evil dogforum that I’m on and the world didn’t end, so…. ;P)

  4. I feel so special that my questions were answered, thank you Joanna! As it happens, you know I’ll keep coming up with more, so hopefully these can be addressed during your next roundup:

    What kind of edible chewies have you found you like for your dogs? Did you have different ones for the Danes? (I’m thinking your smaller dogs may need less to chew on than my bigger hound who can be quite the power-chewer) I’d also wanted to ask you in the past what kind of treats you give your dogs, ie dog “cookies”. We bought some Canidae ones Ellie seems to like but I’d love to know about other options. My last dog used to love carrots but Ellie acts like they’re offensive and beneath her, LOL.

    Given my earlier comments about her dry skin (thanks for that recipe, I bet she’ll love it), is there a shampoo you used for the Danes that you’d recommend? When we first brought her home, I bathed her with a coconut shampoo bar from LUSH because it was all I had. She looked gorgeous afterwards but I’m hoping I can find something *ahem* less expensive for future baths. Between the dry skin, the sand she gets on herself rolling around out in the yard, and the Spring shed (it’s already very warm here so she’s shedding like crazy) I’m going to need to bathe her again soon.

    I found it very interesting to read what you wrote about the trainer/behaviorists, I’ve been feeling that it’s been a blessing in disguise that we didn’t manage to sign up immediately for an obedience class. We’ve just worked with her on the basics (quiet, stay, sit, down, out) while getting to know her and I think that now I’d be a much better advocate for her if a trainer told me to do something stupid (like in that horrible puppy-leash story you blogged about recently). I know her body language and her rhythm, and she knows mine. I’m constantly amazed at how communicative she is with a look, a tilt of the head, a warning yelp when my youngest looks like he’s about to do something he shouldn’t. We’ve gone from a dog that rarely made eye contact and could barely stand to be touched to a dog that 90% of the time looks me or one of the family humans in the eye for direction, and who chooses to come over and snuggle with us while we watch TV. We suspect past abuse because whenever she was “scolded” she would cower, especially if hands were moving while our voice was angry, and because for a while she would flinch if our hands moved suddenly towards her head. We modified our behavior just enough, and the rewards have been great. I *love* this dog!!! I’ll write more another time but wanted you to know this part. I’m definitely going to have to ask you to prioritize for me (and others) a reading list for behavior, training, and care & feeding. Because up there you basically said to read everything there is and that’s all fine and well but it’s gonna take years, so I need to know which are the best “bang for the buck” books. Pleeeeease?!?!? 🙂

  5. Thanks for answering my question, and all the others! To be honest, I don’t really train my two dogs at all – I am both lazy and busy, and because I am fairly happy with their behavior and our relationship (inside the house at least – outside is where we need work), but mostly because I’m not sure exactly what I want to do with them or how I am going to get there! I think your suggestion to read and read is a good one. I will follow it.

    For next week: Could you address ideal weight and HOW to achieve weight loss? My male dog is around 9 years old, 80 lbs, German Shepherd mix with joint issues (loose hips, artificial elbow) but no signs of any arthritis or pain. My female dog is 12 years, 20 lbs, Tibetan Terrier, no health issues, acts like a youngster. I try to walk them (with some running) about an hour a day, more on my days off, and they run off-leash about once a week/every two weeks. Both are altered. Both are also overweight, and I am not sure how to shift it. Girl lost about 8 pounds (most of them in her butt!) since I switched her to raw about 3 years ago. She looks slim to me with a defined waist, but has squeezable chub on her ribs and underbelly. Should I be trying to get her slimmer, at her age?
    I’m sure Boy should be thinner, to protect his joints. He also has a visible waist, but I am NOWHERE near being able to feel his ribs and his belly (specially around his penis) is all flabby, lol.
    I feed raw – a mix of grounds and whole parts from hare-today.com, also some chicken and beef from local places, and venison during deer season. I weigh portions on my kitchen scale. Currently I’m feeding less than what is recommended (2-3% of body weight, right?), and they seem to always be hungry. Neither of them are food hounds- they have a certain amount they will eat at a meal (I feed twice a day) and once they’ve had it are not interested. They will vomit if they overfill their stomachs. But what I’m feeding per meal now seems to be a lot less than they would prefer. They are always begging and looking desperate, which they didn’t use to do when I fed them more (I used to feed only once per day until a few months ago, though)..

  6. ..and neither of them is getting any thinner. Is the solution less food? More exercise? I don’t really have time to walk them much farther than I do now, biking isn’t an option (this area has such narrow busty streets and tiny sidewalks it’s not safe, and I can’t ramp up the intensity of exercise, for Boy at least, because his elbow hurts him if he does anything more than a little running.

  7. Thanks for taking the time to answer, I appreciate it. Looking fwd to reading your breed selection article when you get it back up. 🙂

  8. I love the information you share and how you share it. Thank you for the thoughts on where to get training information from–I think I’ve said much the same, but far less coherently–to many of my friends and puppy buyers.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s